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[ DemythSkin Verdict ]

Dermalogica Biolumin-C Serum
SerumBrightening
Efficacy
Strong
4.0 / 5.0
Safety
Caution
3.7 / 5.0
System Verdict
Potent, cleverly-formulated vitamin C serum with real brightening and anti-aging chops—but the fragrant citrus and limonene keep it from being a universally safe darling. Efficacy is high because you get an ultra-stable vitamin C complex (Ascorbyl Methylsilanol Pectinate + Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate) supported by S Tier antioxidants (vitamin E) and a peptide (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5) in the top half of the INCI, plus lactic acid and multiple humectants for texture and mild exfoliation. I’m holding it below true S Tier because we don’t know exact %s of the vitamin C derivatives, the lactic acid is likely at a gentle, non-peel level, and the fragrant citrus oils add irritation risk that slightly undermines an otherwise sophisticated base.
Active Ingredients Detected
A Tier: Good BasicsProven Results
Water/Aqua/EauGlycerinSodium PCASodium HyaluronateTocopherolTrehaloseHelianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil
B Tier: Supporting IngredientsPromising Ingredients
Butylene GlycolEthoxydiglycolLactic AcidPalmitoyl Tripeptide-5Ascorbyl Methylsilanol PectinateDipotassium GlycyrrhizateAminopropyl Ascorbyl PhosphatePolyacrylate-13PropanediolPolyisobuteneMethylpropanediolPentylene GlycolGlyceryl PolyacrylateCaprylyl GlycolTetrasodium Glutamate DiacetateXanthan GumPolysorbate 20Sodium HydroxidePhenoxyethanol
C Tier: Marketing IdolsHype | Limited or Weak Data
Sophora Japonica Flower Extract
D Tier: Potential IrritantsBe Cautious
Salvia Hispanica Seed OilCitrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Peel OilCarrageenanEthylhexylglycerinLimonene
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DemythSkin is an independent ingredient analyzer. Scores are computed by a deterministic rubric from published clinical evidence — no brand pays for a score.