Cos De BAHA Azelaic Acid 20% — Efficacy 4.4/5.0, Safety 4.2/5.0 | DemythSkin
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[ DemythSkin Verdict ]
Cos De BAHA Azelaic Acid 20%
Cos De BAHA

Cos De BAHA Azelaic Acid 20%

SerumAcne / Oil Control
Efficacy
Strong
4.4 / 5.0
Safety
Mostly Safe
4.2 / 5.0
System Verdict
This is a high-strength azelaic acid workhorse with solid supporting hydration and soothing, but the 20% level makes it a ‘handle with care’ treatment rather than a casual daily serum. At 20% and listed second in the INCI, azelaic acid is clearly present at a therapeutically meaningful concentration for acne, redness, and uneven tone, which strongly drives the efficacy score, while the emollient base, humectants, centella derivatives, panthenol, allantoin, and ceramide NP provide barrier support that helps you tolerate that strength; however, the very high azelaic load plus the use of propylene glycol and a basic pH-adjusted system means irritation potential is real, so this is best for experienced users, not sensitive beginners.
Active Ingredients Detected
S Tier: Gold StandardsHigh Clinical Proof | Skin-Transformative
Azelaic Acid
A Tier: Good BasicsProven Results
BetainePanthenolAllantoinMadecassosideSodium HyaluronateHydrolyzed Hyaluronic AcidTocopherolCeramide NP
B Tier: Supporting IngredientsPromising Ingredients
Dimethyl SulfoneDipotassium GlycyrrhizateCentella Asiatica ExtractCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
C Tier: Marketing IdolsHype | Limited or Weak Data
Sambucus Nigra Flower ExtractMomordica Charantia Fruit ExtractLeontopodium Alpinum Extract
What Each Ingredient Does
Water/Aqua
Primary solvent
Azelaic Acid
Multifunctional treating active
Propylene Glycol
Humectant and solvent
Sodium Hydroxide
pH adjuster/base
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Emollient and texture enhancer
1,2-Hexanediol
Solvent and preservative booster
Cetearyl Alcohol
Fatty alcohol thickener/emollient
Glyceryl Stearate
Emulsifier and emollient
Dimethicone
Silicone emollient and skin protectant
Cetearyl Olivate
Emulsifier and texture enhancer
Sorbitan Olivate
Emulsifier and stabilizer
Betaine
Humectant and osmoprotectant
Dimethyl Sulfone
Solvent, possible soothing support
Panthenol
Humectant and soothing agent
Allantoin
Soothing and skin-conditioning agent
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Soothing and antioxidant agent
Centella Asiatica Extract
Soothing and barrier-support extract
Madecassoside
Soothing centella-derived component
Sodium Hyaluronate
Hydrating humectant
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Hydrating humectant, smaller weight
Tocopherol
Antioxidant and skin-conditioning agent
Ceramide NP
Barrier lipid and moisturization support
Polysorbate 60
Solubilizer and emulsifier
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Antioxidant botanical extract
Full Ingredient List (INCI)

Water/Aqua, Azelaic Acid, Propylene Glycol, Sodium Hydroxide, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, 1,2-Hexanediol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Dimethicone, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Betaine, Dimethyl Sulfone, Panthenol, Allantoin, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Centella Asiatica Extract, Madecassoside, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Tocopherol, Ceramide NP, Polysorbate 60, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract, Momordica Charantia Fruit Extract, Leontopodium Alpinum Extract

Frequently Asked

Is Cos De BAHA Azelaic Acid 20% worth it?

Cos De BAHA Azelaic Acid 20% scores 4.4 out of 5.0 for efficacy (Strong) and 4.2 out of 5.0 for safety (Mostly Safe) on DemythSkin's independent ingredient analysis. This is a high-strength azelaic acid workhorse with solid supporting hydration and soothing, but the 20% level makes it a ‘handle with care’ treatment rather than a casual daily serum. At 20% and listed second in the INC

What are the key active ingredients in Cos De BAHA Azelaic Acid 20%?

Cos De BAHA Azelaic Acid 20% contains these gold-standard actives with strong clinical evidence: Azelaic Acid.

Does Cos De BAHA Azelaic Acid 20% contain fragrance or known irritants?

DemythSkin's analysis found no flagged irritants in Cos De BAHA Azelaic Acid 20%. It scores 4.2 out of 5.0 for safety.

How is Cos De BAHA Azelaic Acid 20% scored?

DemythSkin grades every product on two independent axes: efficacy (whether the ingredients have clinical evidence of working) and safety (irritation and sensitisation risk). Ingredients are classified S through D against a database of over 3,000 compounds. No brand pays for a score.

Analyze on DemythSkin

Analysis last updated: 2026-09-17. DemythSkin is an independent ingredient analyzer. Scores are computed by a deterministic rubric from published clinical evidence — no brand pays for a score.